Delirious: LFW - Kane, Pugh, Ilincic, Gavin Douglas

This season’s London Fashion Week looked set to be the best in ages, what with the newly resurgent capital basking in the energy of the likes of the electrifying Christopher Kane and Gareth Pugh mixing it with the legend in the making that is Boombox, backed up with shows by Matthew Williamson, Temperley and Stella McCartney (albeit her line for Adidas). But as for the young guns, what of them? It had seemed that they had reached the point of implosion after the spring shows – could and would Kane present another collection of bodycon and tightly structured pieces, and would Pugh actually present a collection that was commercially viable?

Christopher Kane’s collection was a dramatic departure from his much-admired figure-hugging dresses, to his credit. His silhouettes opened out dramatically into light chiffon ruffles and floaty dresses, easy on the eye with a restrained palette of fey greys and blues. There was also a strong Midwestern-Stylings-meets-the-Eighties vibe running through the show with wide collars not unlike a couple of Zac Posen’s last week, stonewashed jeans elegantly ripped and snakeskin details that oozed attitude. Individual pieces were beautifully constructed though they bordered on crass – such is the perpetual risk of evoking the eighties – but Kane has always walked the line with an ease beyond his years.

Gareth Pugh’s show began with a bang when a model strode out with a slanted cube where her head should have been, but you couldn’t help but feel that you had seen it before. This prelude gave way to an otherwise accomplished collection exploding with creativity and excitement yet more focused on the clothes than runway heroics more akin to past shows. Extravagant excesses such as streaming tassels and coned hats that wouldn’t have looked out of place in the House of Harlot were underpinned by tight minidresses and well-executed matte black jackets. Though relatively more restrained in feel this time round, Pugh’s creations are still light years away from conventional.

Things toned down a little over at Roksanda Ilincic, though were no less spectacular. In a sophisticatedly elegant collection evoking old world glamour with a twist of modern attitude, Ilincic showed her collection to editors and buyers grazing at coffee tables (though I can’t imagine much was imbibed). Achingly beautiful silk column dresses preceded liquid silver kimono jackets, and elegant gowns evoking a maturing couture sensibility contrasted with voluminous shoulder pads and organza. Sublime.

Gavin Douglas suffered less than favourable reviews last time around – expectations were riding high on this Fashion Fringe winner, with the likes of Sinha Stanic and Basso & Brooke among his contemporaries – but this collection is sure to garner more than a little adulation. If Anna Sui’s girls were punky Barbie girls all grown up, Douglas’s felt like an army of cloned toxic fembots in a Marilyn Monroe-meets-Bret Easton Ellis head-on collision. This show had attitude to spare. Bare and accented shoulders and tiny waisted minis diced with voluminous print dresses and escalating hemlines, and Grecian one-pieces were tempered with luxe tailoring with not a little touch of ghetto fabulous. A shot of the aforementioned screen bombshell transplanted onto a strapless dress – evoking Alber Elbaz’s stellar collection a few seasons ago – covered familiar ground but was only a minor observation in an otherwise fine collection.

Delirious: New York S/S 08 Wrap-up

Ignore the chaotic coiffures, the tardiness and the seats rammed with celebrities over at Marc Jacobs – the collection itself was as gorgeous as ever. Trading edgy austerity for brash sex appeal, the collection took us through Victoriana, transparent, barely-there throws and ladylike tailoring to shimmering black evening dresses with gorgeous draping, colourful shades of Americana and almost hakama-like skirts split high. The message didn't feel as strong or as consistent as his past couple of collections, but individual pieces will sell like hot cakes.

Zac Posen 's ode to the endless plains of the west (or something like that) began strongly with relatively subdued and inventive takes on what a grown-up Dorothy would have worn had the designer had his way. Posen's trademark tailoring was punctuated with exaggerated collars and wide-brimmed hats. Yes ma’am caps contrasted with figure hugging skirts and Lily Donaldson looked perfect in a soft yet spectacular evening gown.

Over at newly imported Preen, designers Thornton and Bregazzi brought out a veritable army of khaki, green and orange with razor-sharp white trousers, tightly wrapped dresses and not a little body-con thrown in though not even Zimmerman could pull off an ill-advised jumpsuit. The collection was edgy and cool though it felt more excessive than past collections. It felt like Desert Storm meets Goddess. The inspiration? American Gigolo and pit girls…

One of the must-sees of this season’s New York Fashion Week, Proenza Schouler 's show was a stellar heavy-hitter of street sass, pseudoregal pomp and luxe to spare. From the perfectly sexy-yet-chic waistcoats and Albertus Schwanepoel millinery to the gorgeous gold-leaf silk pieces at the end, the show astounded from start to end.

More restrained yet just as beautiful was Doo Ri Chung’s beautifully feminine collection which began with tenderly draped skirts and high-waisted trousers before progressing onto layers of tulle and lace and shades of soft minimalism. It was refreshing to see that while the rest of the fashion pack was off chasing the loudest and proudest colours, Chung focused resolutely on the cut and the finish and didn’t resort to theatrics to sell her show.

Also tastefully restrained was Narciso Rodriguez’s show, seamlessly incorporating Japanese influences into his architectural style in a softly angular collection that concluded with a wonderfully embroidered black and purple piece showed off by the now-omnipresent Agyness Deyn.

Rodarte’s take on Japonisme was on the one hand, refreshingly modern yet more Harajuku Fruit disaster than eastern cyber chic. It is always a huge risk whenever a designer experiments with anything involving or related to the terms “sci-fi”, “futuristic” or “wacky”. This didn’t do anything for me. There were some interesting pieces, from the Hussein Chalayan-meets-tatami skirt to the studded blue sandals, but irritatingly it was the more conventionally eastern (read: kimonos, florals) pieces that pulled the collection back from the brink. The finale with the opening of the doors and the outpouring of classic Rodarte was a nice touch, however.

Innovation abounded at Naoki Takizawa’s debut solo show as he revealed foil printed copper and sterling silver and interesting technology in the form of a “memory system technique” that allows fabrics to keep their original appearance. The rest of the collection was hit and miss with beautiful touches to individual pieces but paradoxically, its eccentricity never worked insofar that it never felt coherent or together as a whole.

Finally, Anna Sui’s shows are always a pleasure to behold and this season’s was no exception. Infectiously enthusiastic to the point of delirium, her collection was a stake to the heart of fashion week humdrum. Acid brights and neon blasts of colour were mated with funky pink short pop socks and hair that would have made even Shannyn Sossamon think twice. The look was a luxe take on punky meets cutesy with a whole lotta Bugsy Malone thrown in, with the tiniest of shorts and the brashest of colours colliding – favourably – with girly neckties, striking prints and svelte one-piece swimsuits. Best of all? The beams on the faces of the models. Bruna Tenorio looked absolutely charming while the famously brooding Sasha Pivovarova was more dippy than demonic. Wonderful.

Delirious: We're back!

After the chaos of the summer, we're back. Apologies for taking so long, blogger and the London housing market have not been kind to us. Expect a New York and London wrap up and coverage from Milan/Paris in the next few weeks. It's good to be back.

Delirious: M.I.A

Sorry for the vanishing act we pulled.

The Fascist is busy buying up the Maxmara stock in China, Mikaela is vacationing in London and David is on some retarded London - Europe - Russia - China - SE Asia overland trek. If and when they get back in one piece Delirious will return in late August. See you then!

- David

Delirious: those gold leggings get their first public airing

"Horrific" doesn't even begin to cover it.

Delirious: Diesel Liquid Space

Sartorial Fascism: Snorting Steven Klein

I’m not allowed to say avant garde. Post apocalyptic hyperreality photographer was provided by a Delirious boi who hates S.K.dizzle. What does Steven Klein take? I hope Prozac. So many of his photos are absolutely depressing that they’d probably make Delirious kiddo slit his wrists. I noticed that he seems to have an ongoing motif of horses, bodily injuries, and half–naked or almost–naked or fully–naked delinquent–esque people. But as depressing as they are, they are so amazing. Not the same with his editorials. My favourite editorial of his also happens to be my first digestion of Klein. The Tomorrow Style, seen in L’Uomo Vogue, November 2006 I think. Art as the dogma. I thought the whole thing of having global warming as a theme was so cliché and so OMG I’ve heard enough about global warming and I’m already a fuel–efficient fool so I don’t need Vogue telling me about it. But I have to admit, the editorial was brilliant, even though the content was so lawlzy ridiculous. Haha a fucking gas mask as protection against global warming. Ok, no problem. If I did that, I’d probably get arrested. By CTU and Jack Bauer because I would look like a plotting terrorist. And why would you put a mask on yourself but not a baby? But schwat! That editorial was still Indian teepee powWOW. He had another editorial that had a similar theme. Apocalyptic Ritual, the same vibe and aura. But that one was so butt–ugly. Ripoff, copycat of the Balenciaga SS07 ad campaign, that whole matter of cyborg meets suburbia. And then that was just followed by some of Steven Klein’s worst work ever. He probably took too much Prozac and lost his gold finger and green thumb. In W, “Stefano+Domenico's Dolce Vita”. Naked pix0rz of Dolce and Gabbana. I think Klein had too much testosterone pumping through his veins and tried to make it sultry. But it was so trashy, so wannabe trailer–trash porn. The only one picture that I liked out of the bunch of barf hag faces was the one with the some religious figure, cardinal? IDK my BFF Jill but that was the one with the most clothing in it. And then, waaaah, Steven Klein went soft on us with Naomi Campbell. I’ve got more than a handful for Naomi Campbell. He tried to make her look good in that June 2007 stint for W. But why would Campbell’s Chunky Chicken n00b–le soup ever be wearing a fluorescent cross–guard vest at a dinky dock? Honk to bring back the troops and Steven Klein.

Natski

Delirious: Kane, Fashion Rocks. Big League

British designer Christopher Kane is to show his spring/summer 2008 collection in October for Fashion Rocks. The show, held at London's Royal Albert Hall, will feature him alongside big hitters such as Chanel. Valentino and Dolce and Gabbana. Show sponsors Swarovski had been in attendance at his previous two shows and were said to have been only a tad impressed with the young Scot's talent and flair.

- David

le pic: Reuters

Delirious: The Saga Continues...

Eco-freaks, the socially and culturally conscientious and of course fellow fashion nuts have been lusting after the highly covetable, highly ethically-produced and highly affordable Anya Hindmarch tote. When they went on sale today in Soho they were sold out in three hours flat. The next sales in the US? Selected Whole Foods outlets across the East Coast, and in Europe, a few in Dover Street Market and the London Design Museum, as well as Colette in Paris from the 18th of July. Brown Thomas in Ireland and Milan's Corso Como get a few from July, and in the same month across Japan and SE Asia the ubiquitous tote will be available. Kill me now.

- David

Delirious: Bella, Biba, Buh-Bye =(

Fashion Week Daily has reported that Bella Freud has parted ways with British label Biba and is to relaunch her own collection during this September's London Fashion Week. Her first collection was in Spring 2006. She is believed to be engaging different projects including a capsule collection for London's Dover Street Market later this month and a "fashion-meets-art collaboration" with model and photographer Elle Muliarchy.

- David

Delirious: Storytelling

The ultimate fash fairytale... words by Amanda Harlech (she's not Orhan Pamuk but she'll do), snaps by Uncle Karl, and the leading lady in the form of number one glamazon Zimmerman, torn between her lovers Brad Kroenig and Jake Davis. Revealed in Rome at the same time as the Fendi fragrance and entitled Palazzo, it will be available at (obviously only the most chic) bookstores in the world.

- David

Delirious: Cavalli does Hennes and Mauritz

Just when you thought you had had enough of capsule collections, with releases from big names, the up-and-comings, slebs etc. and the future already looked grim with the forthcoming onslaught of Temperley and Vera Wang for Target and Kohl's respectively we get more. H and M (blogger doesn't do the little "and" symbol apparently) drop another bomb into our laps with luxe deity Roberto Cavalli following in a very distinguished line of creative masterminds.

The collection will hit UK stores in autumn (not "fall"), and Kate Moss is reported to be modelling the collection. Just two things - how on earth is Moss going to do that when she's already contracted to high street rivals Topshop, and how is Cavalli's maximalist glam going to translate on a budget? We await the new snaps eagerly. Again.

- David

Delirious: Gucci by Gucci piccies

I don't know what to make of these. Besides the obviously amazing lineup of Freja, Poly and Zimmerman, there's a bunch of other things going on... like the retro disco glam meets lounge lizard vibe, the saturation and the awkward feel of the pics. I wasn't really impressed. Don't worry that Poly's pic isn't up yet. It'll be everywhere before soon and she looks just as hapless as these two. Zimmerman tried to salvage some integrity but alas. Didn't work, and Freja didn't really stand a chance. =( And what the hell is going on with the size of the bottle? Are they intended for use as hyperglam weapons, or did number one glamazon and co. just shrink?

Oh, and it's the first time Gucci will advertise a fragrance on TV etc etc. [David Lynch... scroll down]

- David

Delirious: Takizawa honoured by French Order of Arts and Letters

Issey Miyake designer Naoki Takizawa was made a chevalier by the French Order of Arts and Letters on Friday, in a ceremony at the Musée du quai Branly in Paris. He was assigned this honour for creating four dramatic curtains that adorn the Museum for Primitive Arts. The award gives recognition to eminent writers and artists, and individuals who have contributed significantly to advancing the arts in France and throughout the world.

Widely considered Miyake's protégé , Takizawa has been at the company since 1989, taking the menswear reins in 1993 before being assigned creative control of the whole operation later. He is known for his outstanding use of new fabrics and organic details, and often draws inspiration from the performing arts for his collections. He will debut his own line at Bryant Park this September under the Issey Miyake umbrella.

- David

Rebel Rebel: Prada Resort 07/08

I am diggin’ this collection, aside from the floral pantsuits of course, those are enough to make me scream. I really hope this isn’t a trend because I saw them in the YSL Resort collection too, yuck. However, when I first saw this I thought the prints were tacky, which they are, but the silhouettes make them work. That makes the whole collection a bit quirky. It was surprising to see at first because this is so different from what we have been seeing from Prada lately. This is more ladylike and feminine, while last season it was more masculine and futuristic. I’m somewhat getting a Dries vibe here though he would never use those prints. Though some of it doesn’t look very wearable, it’s very pretty and appropriate for spring. It’s fresh and old at the same time. This collection somewhat reminds me of “I Love Lucy” and some may say it’s tacky but seriously, who doesn’t love Lucy? There were a few pieces that really stood out to me like that draped tucked gold dress and the shapely floral skirts were lovely too. The shoes are also nice but safe, and kind of boring. Overall I’d say that Miuccia is a font of creativity. Whenever you think you have figured out her inspiration and direction, she completely changes the game.

Mikaela

Sartorial Fascism: Dior Resort 2008 (HA not 2007)

Honestly, I’m completely bemused by this show. I don’t know what to think. Probably because this show was such a mess, kungfu style. A tragic eclectic mix. 1960s centrifuged with Oriental touches. As much as a genius Galliano is, he had a major brain fart right here. Fool, all the colours and patterns and sequins and shininess – shades on, UV protection, you’ll need it. The hair and the sunglasses were so 1960s but for some reason, they drew my brain to The Great Gatsby. Totally wrong era, but every girl just reminded me of Daisy. I hated her, her and her gaudiness. That’s what this damn show was, gaudy. Like that godawful boa–like trim, from the craft store, hot glued on as a last–minute decision. A lot of the detailing, like the embroidery was gorgeous but could you have noticed that if you were blind? Maybe they have colours in Braille. The prints too, a few were absolutely stunning, but you were blinded by all the other million things going on in that outfit. The shoes were great, inspired by Japanese sandals. But then what the fuck, the jewelry? Karl Lagerfeld went to Canal Street for his accessories. John Galliano was running low on funds so he went to a ghetto–fab Asian store (read: tacky–ass pieces of shit). You could wear a huge choker with matching bangles and head thing if you were sporting a bedsheet. Balance, huh. Not with a painfully heinous gold snakeskin coat and skirt. The models were pretty fugz0rz too. The hair and the makeup. Poor Aggy Deyn and that awful blonde wig. Cheap blonde wig too, from the Wigporium, on sale, buy one get one free (hmm, oddly enough, this seems to be the scrimp–and–pinch of all shows – Galliano went bargain hunting). Everyone just looked bored and embarrassed, kind of like, oh please get me out of here. The Teapot Dome of their careers, this show. One girl looked like Janice Dickinson, except not ready–to–flip–you–off Janice, more like ennui–ed and “I have a stick up my ass”. Near the end, a few of the gowns, like the ivory one and the yellow banana plantain one, were satisfactory, but that’s all. And that’s only because the models weren’t overloaded and the gowns were minimalist. Galliano popped out at the end and I didn’t scream. But I did ask him for some Pepto–Bismol for my indigestion and paracetamol for my awful headache.

Natski

CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Nominees

Nick Knight. Aggy. Oscar, Proenza and Marc. Pure fashion nirvana.

Delirious: Kim Noorda for Bally F/W 2007

Inspired!

Or not. Marginally lovely, nice, eh... um... oh, it's Kim Noorda. I don't care.

- David

Delirious: Suvi for Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2007

I had been convinced that when Miuccia Prada had plucked Suvi from obscurity that she must have been joking. This was to be the next Chosen One? Nooo. No chance, surely? But for that season's show most of the girls didn't look traditionally stunning. Not even Delirious fave Hye. Then when these popped up on online I had to have a closer look and lo and behold, Miuccia had indeed (again) chosen wisely and I went for a lie down. Maybe it was the airbrushing? Maybe it was the lighting or that McDean touch? Or maybe, just maybe, Ms. Koponen is destined to be dicing it on the next token US Vogue models cover with the future leading pack?

So here we have it. Suvi shot by McDean for Calvin Klein. Refreshing? Maybe. Calvin Klein? Very.

Why no Natalia V. you ask? She's be-sprogged to the tune of seven months, silly.

- David

Sartorial Fascism: Chanel Resort 2008 (the right year, this time)

The 2008 resort collection by oh IDK my BFF Karl Lagerfeld kind of sort of hurricaned me off my feet. Los Angeles airfield? Holy freak. Blocking air traffic. For a fashion show. Crazy, I wish I had been there. Actually I wish I had been at the control tower listening to cussing pilots. Oh that opening outfit was so amazing. I have a thing for navy captain military–ish uniforms. The headbands were so counterculture, duh hippies, but I liked how they were repeated in the stripes on the jumpsuits. Colour motif, ingenious. And the cutout dresses on the silk blouses, those made me want to bawl in astonishment and admiration. The white and black gown was pretty stellar (the thesaurus says “astrophysical”) too. Then one of the male models came out with a pair of roller skates around his neck, I wonder if that hurt. I remember when I first started roller skating, my roller skates were so heavy on my feet. Like wearing lead boots. Imagine that on your neck. You’d get a pretty deep red mark from the laces. And then, high top trainers, white and grey. Mens though, grr. I’m a sucker for sneaks but can’t you at least let some of the girlies wear them? Plus, grey bottoms all around. Cargo shorts for kleptos because you can store more merchandise. Wide–leg trousers if you have gorgeous mile–long legs. And skinny flat–front ones, keeping up with that trend. Hm, gone soft, no? As all out as this show was, one thing really ticked me off. Cruise collection it is, but does it mean you have to completely commercialize every single thing, Karl? I saw way too many logos. And on baseball caps even. Barf bucket. Those huge logo necklaces. Looks like Lagerfeld made a visit to Canal Street for last minute accessories. And one outfit was completely heinous. The cowboy hat, what the fuck, fug ass denim, Texas. Texas? Since when is Texan gear considered fashion–forward? Texas is like an alien planet, drawwwl. The flat grey ankle boots were so hilarious. Peep–toe boots, hilarious but still, would I wear them? Karl Dawwg made them, of course I would. And guys, don’t forget to snag yourself a puppy, err purse on a leash. Quilted leather, huge “CHANEL” scrawl, guaranteed purebred, it even comes with pet insurance!

Love,
Natski

Sartorial Fascism: Ode to Irina

Sweet ROFLhouses, the cryptic nymphet. Loving her is such an acquired taste sort of experience, like seltzer water. When you see her, she’s not that slim definition of “gorgeous” that you’re brainwashed into during school; she’s not curvy, blonde, or blue–eyed. She’s almost fowl–esque, her eyes are kind of close together, she has an aura of awkwardness and falling over things, her nose is a teeny bit blobbish at the tip, and the heavy shy–girl bangs. But then, if you kind of squint and then open your eyes normal, she’s an absolutely stunning biyatch. And she reads Dante, so I’ve heard, through the grapevine of Fbook. She plays drums in Babyshambles, even though that means chilling with the shower–needy Pete Doherty; she’s also doing a collab with Sean Lennon. I’m obsessed with her cigarette–sucking, indie dressing persona. Her adverts are really so nice, so nice, they make me want to suck crack out of a cigarette. And seeing her on the runway makes me down some Stoli and Diet Coke Plus.

Love,
Natski

Delirious: Happy Clappy LFW

# Hip hop hooray I see dancin', we're kissing and we're hugging... and everyone is singing all the way. #

Or so it would seem. With London's seeming recent rise from its previously relative drabness, "overcrowded" is not a word I would have ever considered using to describe London Fashion Week. but with the unstoppable rise of Deacon, Kane and Pugh, recent showings my Marc and Armani Red and a plethora of talent across the board, next season's new arrivals are the latest in a stellar lineup on British talent.

First off is, as we know, Luella Bartley who will be showing a one-off collection in advance of the opening of her new store in the capital.

More excitingly however, is previous LFW fixture Matthew Williamson who is showing London for his ten-year celebration since his first showing. In London. Before he legged it for New York. Perhaps it really is for the love of Blighty. Maybe it has something to do with an upcoming retrospective at London's Design Museum. Whatever the reason, this September's LFW is set to become one of the most anticipated in ages.

Delirious: Gianfranco Ferré 1944-2007

Gianfranco Ferré, the former Dior designer and "architect of fashion", died on Sunday evening in Milan after a massive cerebral haemorrhage. He was 62 years of age. The designer was taken to Milan's San Raffaele hospital on Friday evening after suffering the haemorrhage. His family has issued a statement confirming the death.

Ferré rose to prominence after designing jewellery and accessories in the 70's, starting his own label Baila in 1974 until Dior came calling in 1989 where he stayed until 1996. Post-Dior, he tended to his own company. His moniker the "architect of fashion" was derived from his architecture degree which influenced his clothing and simple, structured lines. He was particularly known for his wonderful dresses and his unrivalled mastery of the simple white shirt.

Ferré 's colleague and compatriot Giorgio Armani released this statement: “The image that comes to my mind when thinking of Gianfranco Ferré is a man of dignity and calm with a sense of responsibility which always accompanied him,” Armani said. “We knew each other for many years, although not very well, as we both started our careers in what was a special moment for Italian fashion. However, I always observed his work and particularly admired him for his coherence and the intellectualism and artistry upon which he based his fashion philosophy until the end. The greatest sign of his character was in that constant expression of absolute independence.”

Our sincerest condolences go to his family and friends.

- David

Delirious: Freja - The Movie. Coming Soon to a Theater Near You!!!

Okay, I lie.

So everywhere I go I cannot get away from Freja. Not that it's a bad thing. The Gucci billboards, the ads in magazines and the eyewear ads in store windows, the Gucci ads when I step out of South Ken tube... and then those frankly heinous commercials being beamed into our shiny HDTVs for the insipid CK In 2 U ROFL IDK my BFF Jill.

Now Gucci are set to make a short film to promote Frida Giannini's new fragrance Gucci by Gucci (that almost sounds like a joke) after the Prada and Chanel extravaganzas, and though she's not been confirmed, Fashionista reckons it's mighty likely - I reckon it's a dead cert. At this point in time, she is Gucci. Why take a risk on anybody else when Erichsen is Gucci at this moment in time?

If that wasn't enough, it's being directed by some arthouse schlub, David Lynch I think his name was? David Lynch, aka God. This isn't the first time Lynch has directed for fashion. He directed Dior's excellent Fahrenheit commercial a few years back. In any case, it's got to beat the My Little Pony adaptation he's confirmed for (talk about surreal).

- David

Rebel Rebel: Lanvin F/W 07.08

After the pre-fall collection I think we were all looking forward to seeing the F/W Lanvin collection. Sadly, there was really nothing to be looking forward to. The hair was an absolute disaster. It looks like my brother’s hair when he wakes up. As much as I want to be, I am not excited by this collection. The shoes are really great and I loved the interruptions of red and purple on such a somber runway, but overall this is nothing compared to what Elbaz is capable of. There were a few pieces that stood out to me like a fur dress that I would buy in a jiffy; the brooches were also quite inventive and went well with the lovely shoes. Really though, none of the clothes were flattering; even on the models it made them look short and masculine. Just imagine what this would look like on normal people. Last season I was such a fan of the powerful statement clothes. Very fashion forward. New shapes, fabrics, geometrics and all. This seems like a step back, a step to somewhat prettiness? I think this is something he was trying to step away from last season. As much as I try, I see absolutely nothing alluring about badly constructed dresses and gross wigs. Over and out.

Mikaela

Rebel Rebel: Yves Saint Laurent Resort 07/08

I love it. It has the vitality of the early Rive Gauche collections - very happy, colourful, and romantic. This is actually one of my favourite collections since Pilati arrived. I think I may be enjoying resort more than I enjoyed fall…all of the pieces are effortless and the accessories are to die for. The paint splattered bags and dresses? I need them. Need. I don’t particularly like the neutrals but the paint splattered makes up for that. The gowns are also divine but the suits are still the classic YSL, which makes the collection young and fresh, yet classic. How much more could you ask for? The shoes, however, I could disagree with. They are just disgusting. They look like something you could buy at a thrift store or worse…something my grandmother would wear. The other good thing about this collection is that you could actually wear most of these clothes in everyday life. Another piece that really stood out was the black lace cocktail dress with the feather trim as well as the straw embellished bag with the horn handle. All in all, the collection was sublime. Another win for Pilati.

Mikaela

Delirious: Gucci Resort

After the excesses of Dior's airport lounge and Chanel's hangar and unabashed opulence, it was refreshing to see a back to basics show like Frida Giannini's resort collection for Gucci the other day. Still rocking and still full of pheromonal zest but with a more subtle, feminine edge, Giannini has made Gucci her own.

Sticking to a monochrome-plus-one palette, this show held a candle to the Brian Setzers and wild childs of the world. Fantastic were the jackets and structured, masculine shapes but also beautiful were the prints and pleats of the skirts, and the stabs of acid brights. Giannini also showed less can be more with a Margiela-esque ensemble that worked well with Hye Park's focused gaze, and the boys' belted jackets and tailored trousers were seriously rocking. Though perhaps a little too close to Americana for the resort beaches aimed at, the collection also had its fair share of sophisticated evening attire in the form of gorgeous halter cocktail dresses but ultimately, this show was about attitude - and Gucci woman wouldn't have it any other way.
- David

Sartorial Fascism: Dior Resort 2007

I love John Galliano about 100 times more than I love Karl Lagerfeld. And I really want to say that this collection totally beat up and black–eyed the Chanel resort collection. But, I have to admit, it was rather dry. Like, with the Chanel collection, I bashed it, but I have to give my buddy Karl a “whoo” for at least trying and not being timid. For the Dior collection, I felt like Galliano turned wimpy on us. Yeah, this is his first cruise collection, but it wasn’t poppin’, yo. It was so Ann Taylor meets American Apparel, eh no “Dior” in there. Like that first white dress, hm, I’ve seen that dress about 50 times. I have that dress, except mine is from Anthropologie and sans that Dior name.. The collection was not barf–quality; everything was really simple and nice nice nice. I liked the way things flowed and everything, except for the tight metallic hot pants, seemed to be loose and really chillaxed. It reminded me of a windy day, probably b/c the flowing and draping going on. I loved the sequining at the bottom of many of the dresses. THAT was pretty wow. Innovative, especially how it is supposed to represent the skyline. And the wigs, the short short ones, “punk rock”? Wowz0rz. Freja Beha with short hair. But ¿dondé está John Galliano? M.I.A. Well, for most of it. The last dress, the closing so–called act, was Galliano–quality. And then Galliano ran out and scared the shit out of me. The image of Galliano in my head was from that one Sasha editorial - a delicate pirate, like a whisper of "yo ho ho'. Not screaming yo ho ho meets male stripper.

Love,
Natski, Sartorial Fascist

Sartorial Fascism: Chanel Resort 2007

2008 resort collection by my BFF Karl Lagerfeld kind of sort of hurricaned me off my feet. Los Angeles airfield? Holy freak. Blocking air traffic. For a fashion show. Crazy, I wish I had been there. Actually I wish I had been at the control tower listening to cussing pilots. Oh that opening outfit was so amazing. I have a thing for navy captain military–ish uniforms. The headbands were so counterculture, duh hippies, but I liked how they were repeated in the stripes on the jumpsuits. Colour motif, ingenious. And the cutout dresses on the silk blouses, those made me want to bawl in astonishment and admiration. The white and black gown was pretty stellar (the thesaurus says “astrophysical”) too. Then one of the male models came out with a pair of roller skates around his neck, I wonder if that hurt. I remember when I first started roller skating, my roller skates were so heavy on my feet. Like wearing lead boots. Imagine that on your neck. You’d get a pretty deep red mark from the laces. And then, high top trainers, white and grey. Mens though grr. I’m a sucker for sneaks but can’t you at least let some of the girlies wear them? Plus, grey bottoms all around. Cargo shorts for kleptos because you can store more merchandise. Wide–leg trousers if you have gorgeous mile–long legs. And skinny flat–front ones, keeping up with that trend. Hm, gone soft, no? As all out as this show was, one thing really ticked me off. Cruise collection it is, but does it mean you have to completely commercialize every single thing, Karl? I saw way too many logos. And on baseball caps even. Barf bucket, please. Those huge logo necklaces. Looks like Lagerfeld made a visit to Canal Street for last minute accessories. And one outfit was completely heinous. The cowboy hat, what the fuck, fug ass denim, Texas. Texas? Since when is Texan gear considered fashion–forward? Texas is like an alien planet, drawwwl. The flat grey ankle boots were so hilarious. Peep–toe boots, hilarious but still, would I wear them? Karl Dawwg made them, of course I would. And guys, don’t forget to snag yourself a puppy, err purse on a leash. Quilted leather, huge “CHANEL” scrawl, guaranteed purebred, it even comes with pet insurance!

Love,
Natski, Sartorial Fascist

Delirious: CoKate, McDean, Cash Cow

After claiming Kylie and then Team Beckham Superstar Galaxy as their own, French perfume house Coty have announced - quel horreur - that they are to launch a new fragrance with international fashion darling, serial dater of nutters and Croydon local heroine Kate Moss.

The design of the bottle has already been decided... blah blah... perfume's pink and flowery... blah blah... Craig McDean is shooting the ads... yes yes... black rose design, thorns... great. Imaginatively dubbed Kate, Coty CEO Bernd Beetz anticipates the tapping of "consumer groups that [they] haven't tapped into before" as apparently Moss "overlaps fashion and celebrity". So, chavs up and down the country then (what do they call chavs in France? Les chavs??).

However, let's not jump the gun and be sceptical so soon, no? Another Coty product, Beckham's Instinct was a listed finalist in Fragrance Foundation's awards earlier this year, and came a respectable third in the basenote celebrity category against stiff competition. From Paris Hilton. And Carlos Santana.

- David

pic: WWD

Delirious: The Golden Age of Couture, London

As if staging a thoroughly competent exhibition of New York talent from Cloak to Zac Posen wasn't enough, in addition to their stellar permanent exhibition of period pieces and vintage couture, London's Victoria and Albert Museum will be staging a little exhibition from September entitled The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947- 1957. What could it possibly be about, we collectively pondered.

Taking its cue from Dior's famous quote (coinciding somewhat conspicuously with the launch of New Look. Hmm...), the hotly anticipated exhibition will spare no quarter in bringing what should be jaw-dropping pieces from Hartnell, Balmain, Givenchy, Balenciaga and of course, Dior himself. The exhibition runs until January 2008. You can count on us to be nosing around on press
day, yes? Watch this space.

- David

Delirious: 02. 07. 2007

02. 07. 07

Remember those Disneyland adverts? Where the annoying little punk kid keeps waking his parents up because he's too excited? Well that was the same case here at Delirious where some punk kid called Natalie kept prodding me in the back because some hobo John Gallo or ..what? What was he called? Oh, GALLIANO said he would be displaying some painstakingly crafted couture gowns in some town called Versailles in their town hall. Or something.

Doesn't Shalom look pretty?

S/S was pretty spectacular by any measure and expectations are high. With hair and makeup reported to be an arse-numbing 8 hours, the models booked several months in advance and the palace of Versailles ground zero for the event, this has got "legendary" written all over it.

- David

welcome.

haute
couture

/ot kootyoor/

• noun the designing and making of high-quality clothes by leading fashion houses.

— ORIGIN French, ‘high dressmaking’.

Welcome to the world of Delirious Couture. Serving up aesthetic opiates and sartorial style candies with a side order of irreverence, we hope you enjoy.

love,
The Delirious Guys and Girls